Humboldt Park

The vibe

Humboldt Park is both a neighborhood and one of the city's great parks, about 200 acres of lagoons, meadows, old trees and lawns on the West Side. Around it is the heart of Chicago's Puerto Rican community. Division Street between two huge steel Puerto Rican flags is called Paseo Boricua, and it's lined with bakeries, restaurants, murals and the sound of music from somewhere.

The neighborhood is real, residential and has a strong community feel. It isn't trying to be anything for anyone. The Blue Line's California and Division stops are a walk or a bus away, and the Division Street bus runs right through.

Best munchies

This is jibarito country. The plantain-bread sandwich was invented in Chicago's Puerto Rican community, and Humboldt Park's Division Street has spots that do it right. Fried green plantains smashed flat, steak, garlic mayo. It's the perfect stoner sandwich.

Café Colao on Division is a Puerto Rican bakery and coffee shop. Get coffee and something sweet, or something savory and fried. Nellie's does a real Puerto Rican breakfast and lunch. And the neighborhood's corner spots do pastelillos, alcapurrias and rice and beans that'll set you up for the rest of the day. More in the Chicago munchies guide.

Things to do baked

Spend an afternoon in the park. Walk around the lagoon, see the historic boathouse, find a bench in the shade and watch the city go by. In summer, the park is full of families, barbecues, music and pickup games, and it's one of the happiest places in the city.

The National Museum of Puerto Rican Arts and Culture is inside the park in an old stable building. Walk Paseo Boricua and look at the murals. And the western end of the 606 trail runs along the neighborhood's north edge, so you can walk up to Logan Square or east to Bucktown.

Movies and music

For movies, the Logan Theatre is a short trip north. Music here is often outside: Puerto Rican music spilling out of cars, shops and parties all summer. The bars of Logan Square and Wicker Park are close by for a night out.

Best lake or park spot

Humboldt Park itself, obviously. The lagoon, the boathouse and the big lawns are the move on a summer afternoon. The park even has its own little inland beach on the lagoon. It's a long way from the lake, and that's fine, this park makes up for it.

A perfect baked day in Humboldt Park

Start on Division Street at Café Colao with a coffee and something from the case. Walk west down Paseo Boricua under the big steel flag, looking at the murals and the shopfronts. Go for an early lunch at a spot that does a jibarito or a plate of rice, beans and pernil. Then cross into the park. Walk the lagoon, stop at the boathouse, find a big tree to sit under and watch families grill, kids fish and people play dominoes. Wander through the old stable building to the Puerto Rican arts museum. As the light goes, walk north to the 606 and take it east toward Bucktown for dinner, or west back into Logan Square.

Summer is when Humboldt Park is at its best. The park is full from morning to night, there's music everywhere, and the whole neighborhood feels like a block party. Winter is quiet, but the bakeries are still warm.

Getting there and getting around

There's no L stop in the park itself. The California and Division Blue Line stops are the closest, about a 15 to 20 minute walk. The Division Street bus runs right through Paseo Boricua and the North Avenue and Chicago Avenue buses run along the park's edges. The 606's western end runs along the north side, which makes biking in from Logan Square or Bucktown easy.

Sesh notes for Humboldt Park

Humboldt Park's housing is mostly two-flats, greystones and small apartment buildings, often with families living close together, so courtesy matters. Keep smoke away from neighbors' windows and kids, and save the sesh for private porches and back yards. The park is a public park, so it's for the after. In summer, the whole neighborhood smells like charcoal grills anyway, which helps nobody's cover story but makes everyone hungry.

The good and the annoying

Next door

The neighborhoods that border this one, or are one quick ride away.

Before you go, read the Chicago munchies guide, things to do high in Chicago, Chicago by season, where you can sesh in Chicago. And see all twelve neighborhood guides.